How much fence is there to do
Length is the baseline. A single side of a back garden is quick to describe, while a front, side and rear boundary add up. We think in bays, since each bay needs its own panel, its own fixings and a post at each end. That makes a quick tape measure along the real boundary one of the most useful things you can do before asking for advice.
Many Halesowen semis have a back boundary shared with several neighbours, which can mean more bays than you expect. Measuring along the real fence line, rather than guessing from the house, gives a far better sense of the work involved. If hedges, brambles or climbers have grown into the old panels, they need cutting back first, and that is extra labour before we begin.
Clearing what is already there
Before we build anything we have to remove the existing fence, and that stage varies a lot. Some panels lift away cleanly. Others have been nailed and patched for years, with posts that snap at ground level and leave the concrete behind. On streets with limited parking, we need to think about where a van and a skip of timber can safely sit while we work.
Waste also has to go somewhere. A big pile of old timber needs room to be stacked and loaded, which matters on streets where parking is limited. If you want the old fence taken away, say so when you contact us, because it shapes how the day is organised. Because each post sits at a different level on a bank, we check heights as we go instead of relying on a single measurement.
Slopes, setting concrete and conditions
Sloping gardens call for posts cut or set to different heights, and panels fitted to follow the fall. That is more fiddly than a flat run. After the posts go in, concrete needs time to firm up before we load it with panels. Letting the concrete firm properly protects your investment of time and money, even when it feels slow to wait.
Weather decides a lot of this. We would rather wait for a dry spell than fix panels onto posts that are still soft. We also work in Hasbury and Blackheath, and a wet week affects every garden there in the same way. Even a short spell of rain can leave sloping soil slippery, so we hold off if it would be unsafe or spoil the finish.
Quick tips
- Measure along the actual fence line rather than the house wall, and note any corners or changes of direction.
- Say whether you want the old fence taken away, as clearing and loading adds to the work.
- Check that nothing like pipes or cables runs where new posts will be dug, and tell us what you know.
- Be flexible on start dates, because dry ground helps both the digging and the concrete.
If you live in Halesowen and want a realistic idea of how your fence job would run, call us or send a photo with the fence location. We cover B62 and B63, and there is never any pressure to go ahead.
Frequently asked questions
Should I measure the fence before asking for advice?
It is one of the most useful things you can do. We think in bays, each needing a panel, fixings and a post at each end. Measuring along the real Halesowen boundary, not the house wall, gives a far better sense of the work involved.
Why does the old fence matter to the timing?
Existing fences vary a lot. Some panels lift away cleanly, while others have been patched and nailed, with posts that snap and leave concrete behind. Tell us in Halesowen if you want the old timber taken away, because loading and parking space shape how the job is organised.
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