Long gardens mean long runs
Larger period houses often come with deep plots, and the side boundaries can stretch well beyond what you see from a window. Every extra panel adds a post, a hole and a fixing, so a long run is simply more work, even if each bay is straightforward. Do not worry if you are unsure about the exact length, because a few photographs taken along the line tell us a great deal.
Walking the whole line with a tape or even pacing it out helps. Edgbaston properties may also have a mix of boundary types along one side, such as a section of wall, then fence, then hedge, which changes where the new fence starts and stops. Where a fence meets a wall or hedge, the joining detail takes care, and rushing it tends to leave an untidy gap.
Trees, roots and old fences
Tree-lined roads usually mean roots near the fence line. Digging a post hole through a mass of roots is slow and sometimes means moving the post position slightly. We do not want to damage a healthy tree, so we adjust rather than force it. Sometimes a root is simply too large to cut, and then the post moves along a little, which means panels may need trimming to fit.
Old fences in mature gardens can be heavily overgrown, with ivy and shrubs holding them up. Cutting that back, then removing posts that have sat in the ground for a long time, takes careful effort before the new line can be marked out. In older gardens we may uncover buried rubble or old footings, and removing them is part of the job even when it was not visible at the start.
Getting materials down the garden
The distance from the road to the work matters. Carrying panels, posts and bags of concrete a long way, perhaps past flower beds or through a side passage, slows everything and calls for more trips. Wet lawns add to the difficulty. The more of the route you can clear, the quicker the day goes, and the less risk there is of damage to borders.
We also work in Harborne and Selly Oak, where layouts are similar, so we plan the route for materials early. Concrete still needs time to firm up, and a dry spell makes all of this easier and keeps lawns and beds in better shape. We keep this honest and simple, so you are never promised a finish time that a wet lawn could easily undo.
Quick tips
- Mark where any trees or large shrubs sit close to the fence so we can plan post positions around the roots.
- Tell us if the garden can be reached by a side gate, or if everything has to go through the house.
- Walk the whole boundary and note any change from fence to wall or hedge before we visit.
- Cut back overhanging growth where you can, as it makes the old fence easier to release safely.
If you are in Edgbaston and wondering what your own boundary will involve, call us or send a photo showing the fence location. We cover B15 and B16, and we are glad to talk it over with no pressure.
Frequently asked questions
Do tree roots change how a fence is put in?
They can. Digging a post hole through a mass of roots is slow, and a large root may mean moving the post along slightly so a healthy tree is not damaged. In Edgbaston the panels may then need trimming to fit the adjusted spacing.
Does a long garden really make that much difference?
Yes, because every extra panel adds a post, a hole and a fixing. Deep Edgbaston plots can have side boundaries running well beyond what you see from the window, and carrying materials a long way adds more trips. Photos along the whole line help.
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