Debris builds up faster than you think
Along a long garden fence, fallen leaves, grass cuttings and soil settle at the bottom edge. It looks harmless, but it forms a damp layer that stays wet long after the sun has dried everything else. Over time the lowest board takes in that moisture and starts to soften, and the rot can then spread to the rail. It is surprising how much water collects behind a pile of leaves in a shaded corner.
Take a hand fork or a stiff brush and clear a strip along the foot of the fence every season. Rake it away rather than just pushing it aside. If the ground itself is higher than the bottom of the boards, scrape it down a little so there is a clear gap between timber and soil. If the soil is firm and wet, it may be worth lowering it by a few centimetres along the worst stretch.
What to do when a board has been cut
After a repair, the fresh end of any board, rail or post has no protection. Cut ends soak up water far more readily than the faces of the timber, so they are the first place rot starts. Brush on a coat of preservative as soon as the cut is made, and give it time to soak in before the piece is fixed. Look at the underside of any capping or trim as well, which is often missed and can hold water.
Do the same when you drill new holes or trim a post top. Treat the exposed wood, then let it dry. If you are mixing new timber with older fence, expect the colours to differ for a while. A stain over the whole run evens the look and gives all the wood the same protection. A gravel board will keep the new timber off the ground and take most of the wear from then on.
Choosing the right day
Preservative and stain need dry boards and a dry spell afterwards. A damp fence can trap moisture beneath the coating, which defeats the point. Wait until the timber has dried properly after rain, and avoid treating when showers are likely. Keep an eye on gates too, where the hinge and latch posts carry more weight and wear sooner than the rest.
Semis often have a side gate and a run of fence along a driveway as well as the back garden. Include these in your plan, since gates, gate posts and the boards beside a path are splashed more than the rest. Treat the bottoms and tops of those boards with particular care. Check wire, nails and screws along the way and replace any that have rusted, as they weaken the join and stain the wood.
Quick tips
- Clear leaves and soil from the foot of the fence every season, and rake the debris away completely.
- Brush preservative on every cut end the moment it is made, before the piece is fitted.
- Include gates, gate posts and driveway-side boards in your treatment, as they take the most splashing.
- Wait for a settled dry spell, and let the timber dry out before you start treating.
If a fence in Acocks Green is looking tired, call us or send a photo and the fence location. We cover the B27 area, and we also work in Hall Green and Yardley. We will give you straight advice, with no pressure.
Frequently asked questions
Why do cut ends of boards need treating after a repair?
The fresh end of any board, rail or post has no protection, and cut ends soak up water far more readily than the faces of the timber. Brush on preservative as soon as the cut is made. This matters for patchwork repairs on Acocks Green fences.
Which parts of the fence need extra attention when I treat it?
Gates, gate posts and boards beside a path or driveway are splashed more than the rest, and hinge and latch posts carry more weight. Treat the bottoms and tops of those boards with particular care. Many Acocks Green semis have a side gate and driveway run as well.
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