Step one, decide what the gate is for
Before anyone digs a hole, work out who and what will use the gate. A side entrance that only takes people on foot can be narrow, while a gate that also lets a mower, a bin or a barrow through needs more room. Across Birmingham we see everything from tiny front gardens to long rear plots, so there is no standard size that suits all of them. Taking a minute over this stage avoids most of the problems that show up later.
Stand in the gap and picture the swing. Which way should it open, and does it hit a wall, a drainpipe or a step? Deciding the hanging side early saves expensive changes later. As a rule the gate swings towards the space with more room, and hinges go on the side that gives the most convenient latch height and view. Write the answer down so everyone involved agrees before work starts.
Step two, get the posts right
Posts decide whether a gate lasts. The hanging post should be thicker and set deeper than the line posts, bedded in concrete and left to set before any weight goes on it. Square, plumb posts give a gate that closes cleanly. Posts out of true by even a small amount make a leaf that catches or swings open by itself. A lean you cannot see by eye often shows up with a spirit level held against the post.
On city plots we often find old fence posts that have gone soft where they meet the soil. Using such a post as a gate post is a false saving, since the first few months of daily use will pull it over. Where a new gate joins an existing run, replacing the nearest post is usually the honest answer. It costs a little more effort now and saves a repeat visit later.
Step three, hardware, bracing and finish
Pick hinges and a latch chosen for the size of the gate you are hanging, not just whatever set is nearest to hand. Strap hinges spread the load along the rail, and a sturdy latch that can be reached from both sides saves arguments. Braced timber frames stay square, with the diagonal rising from the hinge end towards the latch end. Do not forget the gate keeper on the closing post, which is easy to overlook.
Leave room under the leaf so it clears the ground through the whole swing, and allow a little extra where the path is uneven. Match the gate to the neighbouring fence in height, board spacing and stain so it blends in, because a mismatched gate is the first thing people notice from the road. Treat any cut ends with preservative before the gate is hung, since those faces soak up water first.
Quick tips
- Decide the opening width from the widest item you move through it, and add a little room at each side.
- Check the swing against walls, drainpipes, steps and parked bikes before choosing the hanging side.
- Replace any soft or leaning post next to the gate, because new hinges cannot fix a weak post.
- Use a diagonal brace running up from the hinge side, and fit it before the gate leaves the bench.
Whether you are in Birmingham, B postcodes, or just outside, send us a photo of the gap and tell us where the fence is, or ring for a chat. We also work in Solihull and Sutton Coldfield. There is no pressure, only straight advice on what the job needs.
Frequently asked questions
What should I decide before any holes are dug for a gate?
Work out who and what will use it, and which way it should swing. Check the swing against walls, drainpipes and steps. Across Birmingham plots vary so much that no standard size suits everyone, so agree the width and hanging side first.
Can I use an old fence post as a gate post?
Usually not. Old posts often go soft where they meet the soil, and daily use will soon pull one over. Where a new gate joins an existing Birmingham fence, replacing the nearest post is normally the honest answer, because new hinges cannot fix a weak post.
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